Today we are driving from Agra to Jaipur. Jaspal does not much like Agra because the people are too aggressive, l suspect it is because the majority of the people are Muslim. However our experiences today are going to support his opinion. The plan is to drive to Fatehpur Sikri and look round this Mogul ghost city, then drive on to the Keoladeo National Park and spend some time communing with nature.
You must park a little distance from Fatehpur Sikri and then take a short bus ride up to the site itself. The city was built by the Mogul emperor Akbar who had consulted a local Sufi prophet who predicted a male heir to the emperor. When this came true he decided to build a new capital here in 1572 only to be abandoned in 1585 due it is thought to a shortage of water.
There were three Palaces, one for each of his wives, one Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian (although the local Hindus dispute these claims). He also built a huge mosque which is still in use today. Visiting the mosque complex is free but the rest requires a guide and large entry fee. We opt for the free ticket and enter the doors below.
Inside the mosque complex with its indo-mughal styling. This is the Tomb of the of the prophet's grandson which is next to his grandad Shaikh Salim Chishti.
This is the Grandad's Tomb. Remember, jhe was the one who got lucky with the birth prediction. Now women hoping to have children tie a thread to the carved filigree marble screens. It was finished in 1581.
"
This is the east side of the mosque. This imposing gate only really gives access to a north-south corridor, much like a cloister. The painting and decoration is in remarkable condition considering its 500+ age tag.
Finally for you apiarists here is a lovely swarm of honey bees that is about the size of a football. It was described by a local as a nest.
I have good memories of my last visit here in 1997. I cannot say the same of 2018. Our trip was totally spoilt by the invasive persistence of masses of hawkers, would be guides (illegal and unqualified), and brazen barefaced beggars. Touts and hawkers are a problem throughout India but never have I encountered it as unpleasant as it is at Fatehpur Sikri. So, thankfully goodbye to that and I won't come back until someone does something about it. I would recommend any tourist thinking of coming here, to think again.
Quite close to Fatehpur Sikri and on the way to Jaipur is the Keoladeo National Park. Historically this was a huge hunting ground for the Maharajas but as their leisure time pursuits evolved it became a nature reserve. The park has also been declared a World Heritage Site. It is particularly important for the bird life both migrant and residents as it has extensive wetlands as well as shady arid jungle areas. The reptilian species are also most abundant.
On entry there is a large notice specifying all the prices. There is an entrance charge, Rs 500 each, rickshaw hire Rs 150 for the two of us and the use of a guide Rs 250. So that's Rs 1000 plus Rs 400, Ok? So off we were pedalled and we soon encountered birds. These were the first that the guide pointed out. LBJs I thought but apparently they are called Silver Bills. It's a pity that you can't see their bills.
Pigeon you scoff, but no, it is a Laughing Dove and really quite attractively coloured.
Quite small chappie this, as the name suggests, Spotted Owlet
I spotted this solo observer on high, much to the delight of the guide. It is a vulture. In the 1980s there were 40 million of them in India. Since the introduction of diclofenac the number has decreased to around a mere 100000 which is a 99% decline.
A loving couple whose amorous behaviour would not be approved in Pushkar. They are Green Parakeets who have modestly got themselves out of focus.
Shikra, a hunting bird that was used in falconry.
Red-Vented Bulbul whose diet includes the occasional gecko
Nestling amongst the branches you can spot a yellow footed green pigeon.
The wildlife here was really great and we hadn't even got to the wetlands where there are thousands of migrants. It was time for us to go back as we had only allowed ourselves one hour, not wanting to have to drive back to Jaipur in the dark. It was time to pay. We had sorted out the Rs 1000 entry. So just the Rs 400 balance. I hand over Rs 500 giving the two guys a Rs 50 tip each. But no. We are wrong. The cost is 2×250Rs plus 2×150Rs. Helen argues the toss, vigorously. We take them back to the price board to show them exactly what it states. The guide offers all the money back. We don't want it back, we just don't want to be cheated. We leave with a very upset Helen and a very disappointed Jaspal who is ashamed of his countrymen. Oh dear today we have seen some of the worst aspects of India.
You must park a little distance from Fatehpur Sikri and then take a short bus ride up to the site itself. The city was built by the Mogul emperor Akbar who had consulted a local Sufi prophet who predicted a male heir to the emperor. When this came true he decided to build a new capital here in 1572 only to be abandoned in 1585 due it is thought to a shortage of water.
There were three Palaces, one for each of his wives, one Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian (although the local Hindus dispute these claims). He also built a huge mosque which is still in use today. Visiting the mosque complex is free but the rest requires a guide and large entry fee. We opt for the free ticket and enter the doors below.
Inside the mosque complex with its indo-mughal styling. This is the Tomb of the of the prophet's grandson which is next to his grandad Shaikh Salim Chishti.
This is the Grandad's Tomb. Remember, jhe was the one who got lucky with the birth prediction. Now women hoping to have children tie a thread to the carved filigree marble screens. It was finished in 1581.
"
This is the east side of the mosque. This imposing gate only really gives access to a north-south corridor, much like a cloister. The painting and decoration is in remarkable condition considering its 500+ age tag.
Here we are looking down that cloister. Once again look at the intricacy, detail and quality of the workmanship.
Finally for you apiarists here is a lovely swarm of honey bees that is about the size of a football. It was described by a local as a nest.
I have good memories of my last visit here in 1997. I cannot say the same of 2018. Our trip was totally spoilt by the invasive persistence of masses of hawkers, would be guides (illegal and unqualified), and brazen barefaced beggars. Touts and hawkers are a problem throughout India but never have I encountered it as unpleasant as it is at Fatehpur Sikri. So, thankfully goodbye to that and I won't come back until someone does something about it. I would recommend any tourist thinking of coming here, to think again.
Quite close to Fatehpur Sikri and on the way to Jaipur is the Keoladeo National Park. Historically this was a huge hunting ground for the Maharajas but as their leisure time pursuits evolved it became a nature reserve. The park has also been declared a World Heritage Site. It is particularly important for the bird life both migrant and residents as it has extensive wetlands as well as shady arid jungle areas. The reptilian species are also most abundant.
On entry there is a large notice specifying all the prices. There is an entrance charge, Rs 500 each, rickshaw hire Rs 150 for the two of us and the use of a guide Rs 250. So that's Rs 1000 plus Rs 400, Ok? So off we were pedalled and we soon encountered birds. These were the first that the guide pointed out. LBJs I thought but apparently they are called Silver Bills. It's a pity that you can't see their bills.
Pigeon you scoff, but no, it is a Laughing Dove and really quite attractively coloured.
Quite small chappie this, as the name suggests, Spotted Owlet
I spotted this solo observer on high, much to the delight of the guide. It is a vulture. In the 1980s there were 40 million of them in India. Since the introduction of diclofenac the number has decreased to around a mere 100000 which is a 99% decline.
A loving couple whose amorous behaviour would not be approved in Pushkar. They are Green Parakeets who have modestly got themselves out of focus.
Shikra, a hunting bird that was used in falconry.
Red-Vented Bulbul whose diet includes the occasional gecko
Nestling amongst the branches you can spot a yellow footed green pigeon.
The wildlife here was really great and we hadn't even got to the wetlands where there are thousands of migrants. It was time for us to go back as we had only allowed ourselves one hour, not wanting to have to drive back to Jaipur in the dark. It was time to pay. We had sorted out the Rs 1000 entry. So just the Rs 400 balance. I hand over Rs 500 giving the two guys a Rs 50 tip each. But no. We are wrong. The cost is 2×250Rs plus 2×150Rs. Helen argues the toss, vigorously. We take them back to the price board to show them exactly what it states. The guide offers all the money back. We don't want it back, we just don't want to be cheated. We leave with a very upset Helen and a very disappointed Jaspal who is ashamed of his countrymen. Oh dear today we have seen some of the worst aspects of India.
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