Today we are driving from Udaipur to Jodhpur or at least to the village about 20kms short of Jodhpur where we are going to experience our homestay. Before that however we have two visits to make, the first of which will take us quite far off the beaten track.
We didn't expect to have to go quite so far off the planned route. We had to stop at a traffic blockage in a village because the locals were demonstrating against a recently released film. It transpired a lot of people throughout India were kicking up a fuss about the historical inaccuracies portrayed in it. Apparently it included scenes of a Maharani dancing! After taking advice we ventured on a detour. The downside was that it cost us at least a hour but the upside was the insight we gained into the harsh lifestyle these peasant people endure trying to farm this arid land.
As the oxen trudge on the eternal circle, they are powering the wheel of buckets to raise the life giving water.
Everybody is involved in the struggle for survival.
We finally arrive at Kumbhalgarh Fort which was the second refuge of the Mewar rulers, after Chittorgarh and it was to here that they would retreat in times of real danger. Built by Rana Kumbha in about 1450 it stands isolated 1100ms above sea level in the Aravalli mountains. Not surprisingly Kumbhalgahr was only taken once in its history. It took the combined forces of Amber, Marwar and the Mogul Emperor Akbar, but they only managed to hold on to it for two days.
The fort's walls stretch for 36kms and at times are wide enough for 8 horses to gallop abreast. You can walk round them in 2 days.
They enclose 360 ruined and intact temples, some of which date back to the C2 BCE,as well as palaces, gardens, step wells and 700 canon bunkers.
Room at the top along with its view
After a late lunch in a restaurant with a panoramic view of the hills, we move on to our second objective of the day which is to visit the most famous Jain temple at Ranakpur.
Entering any Jain temple requires a little taking off and a little putting on. Off with the shoes, anything leather any food or drink. On goes head,shoulder, and leg cover. The figure below is Adinath, the first of the Jain tirthankars and to whom the temple is primarily dedicated. Incidently this statue is about 4× life size.
Built the C15 in milk white marble the Chaumukha Mandir (four faced temple) is a stunning example of the stone carvers art. It consists of 29 halls, 80 domes and 1444 individually carved pillars.
The interior is completely covered in knotted carving with every symbol representing its own religious significance.
There are of course other visitors who are less respectful than the humans.
Inside there is a marvellous sense of calm, space and harmony.
I really could have spent more time here but Jas was keen to press on to the overnight stop, being reluctant to drive in the dark. So we are moving on to our homestay where we are really hoping to experience life with an Indian family, warts and all.
We didn't expect to have to go quite so far off the planned route. We had to stop at a traffic blockage in a village because the locals were demonstrating against a recently released film. It transpired a lot of people throughout India were kicking up a fuss about the historical inaccuracies portrayed in it. Apparently it included scenes of a Maharani dancing! After taking advice we ventured on a detour. The downside was that it cost us at least a hour but the upside was the insight we gained into the harsh lifestyle these peasant people endure trying to farm this arid land.
As the oxen trudge on the eternal circle, they are powering the wheel of buckets to raise the life giving water.
Everybody is involved in the struggle for survival.
We finally arrive at Kumbhalgarh Fort which was the second refuge of the Mewar rulers, after Chittorgarh and it was to here that they would retreat in times of real danger. Built by Rana Kumbha in about 1450 it stands isolated 1100ms above sea level in the Aravalli mountains. Not surprisingly Kumbhalgahr was only taken once in its history. It took the combined forces of Amber, Marwar and the Mogul Emperor Akbar, but they only managed to hold on to it for two days.
The fort's walls stretch for 36kms and at times are wide enough for 8 horses to gallop abreast. You can walk round them in 2 days.
They enclose 360 ruined and intact temples, some of which date back to the C2 BCE,as well as palaces, gardens, step wells and 700 canon bunkers.
Room at the top along with its view
After a late lunch in a restaurant with a panoramic view of the hills, we move on to our second objective of the day which is to visit the most famous Jain temple at Ranakpur.
Entering any Jain temple requires a little taking off and a little putting on. Off with the shoes, anything leather any food or drink. On goes head,shoulder, and leg cover. The figure below is Adinath, the first of the Jain tirthankars and to whom the temple is primarily dedicated. Incidently this statue is about 4× life size.
Built the C15 in milk white marble the Chaumukha Mandir (four faced temple) is a stunning example of the stone carvers art. It consists of 29 halls, 80 domes and 1444 individually carved pillars.
The interior is completely covered in knotted carving with every symbol representing its own religious significance.
There are of course other visitors who are less respectful than the humans.
Inside there is a marvellous sense of calm, space and harmony.
Finally this dome internal centre piece is a real feature of Jain architecture and is carved from a single block of marble.
I really could have spent more time here but Jas was keen to press on to the overnight stop, being reluctant to drive in the dark. So we are moving on to our homestay where we are really hoping to experience life with an Indian family, warts and all.
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