An Indulgence in India Sat 27th Jan 2018

I feel that this is rather an important blog because I would like to talk about our experience at a homestay with an extended family who are working hard to preserve and share traditional Indian culture and family life.
As part of of our month long holiday in Delhi, Rajasthan and Goa Helen and I were keen to experience at least one homestay in order to try to get a little more under the Indian skin than the usual tourist package holiday /multiple retail opportunities. I met the Prajapat family with the help of that well-known "dating agency"  Booking.com.

Knowing only what I had read on the aforementioned website, which I must say was effusive in its praise, we arrived with some apprehension and our driver. Chhotaram and his family could not have been more welcoming. There are three generations of the Prajapat family involved in the enterprise. Mr Prajapat senior of the splendid Rajasthan moustache is pictured below chopping up the cabbage for lunch. He is a weaver by occupation who was responsible for forming the local weavers cooperative. His eldest son, Chhotaram was responsible for setting up the homestay business and seems to do most of the day to day running of it. Chhotaram is very aware that the traditional lifestyle of weaving and farming is bound very soon to change. His aims are threefold, to try to preserve the local culture, to try to give foreigners an insight into it and to make some money. Chhotaram has three brothers on hand to help but it is Shambhuram who is his first lieutenant.

Here you can see inside the accommodation which Helen and I shared. You can see through into the en suite facilities, shower, toilet and wash hand basin. There is limited storage space available but remember you are choosing to stay in a traditional hut and not a hotel. 

The huts from the outside. I think there were five together here and a couple closer to the communal area.

Grandad and Grandma weaving a durry whilst simultaneously caring for the apple of eyes, Chhotaram's 11 months old niece.

Shambhuram joining us for breakfast. The quality of the home grown, organic food is first class and cooked over open fires in front of us. Visitors are welcome to help with the food preparation. All the food is vegetarian and is cooked to suit each individual's taste.

The patriarch, matriarch and grandchild. They are sitting in the communal area where meals are taken when it's light. Behind to the left is the kitchen and evening dining area and directly behind is the office and durry store

One of the greatest strengths of this family is their cohesiveness. The children's turnout, politeness and general willingness to help is outstanding by any comparison anywhere in the world. 

Two young men ready for school. 

So, to summarise our experience. First of all this is a working farm, indeed on our second night we witnessed the birth of a calf first hand,  and a craft enterprise and not just a holiday with a difference for foreigners. It was well above my expectations but there are some areas that perhaps need some reassessment. Indian villages are noisy places all day and night. Don't be surprised when you hear the many dogs barking or the people at the temple drumming and singing into the small hours. Perhaps a warning of this on the website would be useful for some people. Chhotaram also offers the opportunity to go on a safari trip. I didn't think that it was made clear that the cost was 1000 rupees (about £12) a head. It involves a trip in a jeep to see the local potter (you can try to throw a pot) then the chance to buy some pottery. Next on to the opium man who also makes pestle and mortars, which you can buy. Through the countryside to see the local wildlife comes next. Realistically you will see wild peacock, antelope and gazelle if you are lucky. Finally off to the recycling centre which consists of a warehouse where old garments are reused to make such as bedspreads and wall hangings. Clearly a lot of new items also come in here and you are exposed to quite a hard sell. I'm not sure about everyone else but I get really fed up with the Indian hard sell and the ritual of tea followed by an avalanche goods being offered. Then there is that guilty feeling you have when you try to leave purchase free or with that thing you didn't really want and will never use.
Chhotaram, you really are doing a great job and I would like to wish you all the very best. I really think that you ought to reassess the safari to make all that you offer a cut or two above anyone else. You are very welcome to use all or some of this blog as you like. Please see contact details below.

An Indulgence in India Thursday 25th Jan 2018

Today we are driving from Udaipur to Jodhpur or at least to the village about 20kms short of Jodhpur where we are going to experience our homestay. Before that however we have two visits to make, the first of which will take us quite far off the beaten track.
We didn't expect to have to go quite so far off the planned route. We had to stop at a traffic blockage in a village because the locals were demonstrating against a recently released film. It transpired a lot of people throughout India were kicking up a fuss about the historical inaccuracies portrayed in it. Apparently it included scenes of a Maharani dancing! After taking advice we ventured on a detour. The downside was that it cost us at least a hour but the upside was the insight we gained into the harsh  lifestyle these peasant people endure trying to farm this arid land.
As the oxen trudge on the eternal circle, they are powering the wheel of buckets to raise the life giving water.

Everybody is involved in the struggle for survival.

We finally arrive at Kumbhalgarh Fort which was the second refuge of the Mewar rulers, after Chittorgarh and it was to here that they would retreat in times of real danger. Built by Rana Kumbha in about 1450 it stands isolated 1100ms above sea level in the Aravalli mountains. Not surprisingly Kumbhalgahr was only taken once in its history. It took the combined forces of Amber, Marwar and the Mogul Emperor  Akbar, but they only managed to hold on to it for two days.

The fort's walls stretch for 36kms and at times are wide enough for 8 horses to gallop abreast. You can walk round them in 2 days.

They enclose  360 ruined and intact temples, some of which date back to the C2 BCE,as well as palaces, gardens, step wells and 700 canon bunkers.

Room at the top along with its view

After a late lunch in a restaurant with a panoramic view of the hills, we move on to our second objective of the day which is to visit the most famous Jain temple at Ranakpur.

Entering any Jain temple requires a little taking off and a little putting on. Off with the shoes, anything leather any food or drink. On goes head,shoulder, and leg cover.  The figure below is Adinath, the first of the Jain tirthankars and to whom the temple is primarily dedicated. Incidently this statue is about 4× life size.

Built the C15 in milk white marble the Chaumukha Mandir (four faced temple) is a stunning example of the stone carvers art. It consists of 29 halls, 80 domes and 1444 individually carved pillars.

The interior is completely covered in knotted carving with every symbol representing its own religious significance.

There are of course other visitors who are less respectful than the humans.

Inside there is a marvellous sense of calm, space and harmony.

Finally this dome internal centre piece is a real feature of Jain architecture and is carved from a single block of marble. 

I really could have spent more time here but Jas was keen to press on to the overnight stop, being reluctant to drive in the dark. So we are moving on to our homestay where we are really hoping to experience life with an Indian family, warts and all. 

An Indulgence in India Wed 24th Jan 2018

The weather pattern remains very consistent with bright and sunny days and cold nights. Now we have arrived in Udaipur the plan for the day is to walk round the town and look at the shops then visit the City Palace. Remember that's where the Mewas dynasty moved after they abandoned Chittorgarh in the mid C17. The lake and setting is the star really but the Palace is a pretty impressive understudy. The first image is all over the district. It is the badge on the private soldiers chests, the identity stamp on everything owned by the Royalty, fills the souvenir shops and this huge one above the main entrance to the Palace.

Inside the oldest part of the Palace. It is divided into the male and female sections. Access to the ladies area was very restricted particularly to males with all their parts present. Here we are in the male area and this beautiful courtyard has fresh air and great views over Lake Pichola

The classic view of the Taj Lake Palace Hotel of James Bond Octopussy fame as well as many others including the aforementioned Sir Mick Jagger who I noticed in the visitors book signed in as "musician USA".

One of the most stunning rooms in the Palace with the mirrors giving an effect of almost infinite depth. If you look closely you can see the blogger and bloggess.

Look closely at the picture below and you will realise that you are looking at a steam punk awala.

There is a phrase that goes something like "I danced with a gal who danced with a guy.....". They have a similar boast here, no not the Prince of Wales's nor even Gandhi's but those worn by Ben Kingsley in the Gandhi film.

Two views of the peacock courtyard with its fabulous inlays of the eponymous bird.

A bit of of a diversion from the culture, what better than a pedalo in the park. We chose the swan as being most appropriate.

These really pretty gardens were built Maharana Sangram Singh ll for the entertainment of the Royal Ladies and their maids of honour.

Novel fountains with marble elephants squirming from the four sides of the lily pond.

We decided to take to the waters of Lake Pichola by doing one of the hourly boat trips that included a landing on Jagmandir island that contains a modest summer Palace to keep the Maharana cool in midsummer.

The whole City Palace complex from the boat trip perspective.

Taj Lake Palace Hotel

The old Palace overshadows the sunset terrace of the Promenade Restaurant.

 A lot of the Palace has now been converted into a luxurious hotel.

An Indulgence in India Monday 22nd Jan 2018

We have a fairly long drive of about 8 hours today down to Udaipur but we are breaking the journey at Chittorgarh. After about 3 hours we make a coffee break. As happens so often a chap wants a selfie with Helen. During his second shot he gets his head a little too close to Helen's for Jas's liking and he proceeds to tell him so. It is an obligation for a Sikh to point out where he considers people are out of order. I did tell you that they weren't cheek turner's.
Eventually we arrive at Chittor which is the modern town at the base of the old Fort. It is a very industrial area. There must be limestone hereabouts because there is a huge cement factory along with marble quarrying and a steelworks.

However this is recent activity because the Fort was deserted by Rana Udai Singh in 1568. It is the largest fort complex in India. It rises spectacularly from the plains like a huge rock island, nearly 6kms long and surrounded on all sides by 150ms plus cliffs. The story of this place is fascinating and barely credible to those of us who live in modern times. It encompasses romanticism, chivalry and tragedy. Three times in 1303, 1535 and 1568 Chittorgarh was under attack by a more powerful enemy. Each time its people chose death before dishonour performing jauhar. The men put on saffron robes and rode out to certain death whilst the woman and children immolated themselves on huge funeral pyres. The first substantial building we encounter after we have climbed up the winding road and gone through the six gates is the Rana Kumbha Palace

The Kumbha Shyram Temple dedicated to Vishnu with its carved panels illustrating C15 Mewar life. This is the local dynasty that rules this area including Udaipur. They claim to be the longest continuous ruling dynasty in the world and still reign and live in Udaipur City Palace. 

 The major monument in the fort is the nine storey high Tower of Victory. Erected by Rana Kumbha in the 1440s to celebrate a victory in the local derby match against the Melwa. If you are here and fit enough you can climb to the top of it and drink in the views. That's not the only drink you will need when you get there.

The Palace of Padmini, a princess who by a typically Indian bureaucratic mistake got betrothed to two nearby princes. Both arrived with strong armies and threatened to take their prize by dint of force and retribution. I would have told them to sort it out between themselves but she was made of sterner stuff and took poison thus saving her people. Well maybe.... We heard the same story about a princess in Udaipur City Palace, maybe it was the same one.

The Temple of Samidhesh was built in the sixth century and restored in1427. Close to the temple are the cremation stones where 13000 women and children committed jauhar in 1427.

 We took this especially for Fin. Now that you can drive we thought that you might like to try this. It is in fact an automated temple drum and bell ringer. I wondered how they could keep it up all night.

After lunch we drove on to Udaipur. I chose the Rang Niwas Hotel to stay because I remember it with pleasure when my brother Jonty and I stayed there in 1997. I would have liked to have said that the owner remembered me. I can't. He didn't. It is a splendid place built in the late C19 and sort of miniplacial being just a few strides away from the City Palace and centre of town. Have a wee peek at the place. I had a swim here and the water comes directly from the glacial melt in the Himalayas. At least that's what it felt like! 

The main building which has a library cum lounge in the centre complete with stuffed tiger and the paraphernalia for the killing thereof.

 This is our outdoor area where we took breakfast and afternoon tea.

Alternatively we could relax in the garden. The cost incidentally was £20 a night total.