Friday 26 January 2018

An Indulgence in India Monday 22nd Jan 2018

We have a fairly long drive of about 8 hours today down to Udaipur but we are breaking the journey at Chittorgarh. After about 3 hours we make a coffee break. As happens so often a chap wants a selfie with Helen. During his second shot he gets his head a little too close to Helen's for Jas's liking and he proceeds to tell him so. It is an obligation for a Sikh to point out where he considers people are out of order. I did tell you that they weren't cheek turner's.
Eventually we arrive at Chittor which is the modern town at the base of the old Fort. It is a very industrial area. There must be limestone hereabouts because there is a huge cement factory along with marble quarrying and a steelworks.

However this is recent activity because the Fort was deserted by Rana Udai Singh in 1568. It is the largest fort complex in India. It rises spectacularly from the plains like a huge rock island, nearly 6kms long and surrounded on all sides by 150ms plus cliffs. The story of this place is fascinating and barely credible to those of us who live in modern times. It encompasses romanticism, chivalry and tragedy. Three times in 1303, 1535 and 1568 Chittorgarh was under attack by a more powerful enemy. Each time its people chose death before dishonour performing jauhar. The men put on saffron robes and rode out to certain death whilst the woman and children immolated themselves on huge funeral pyres. The first substantial building we encounter after we have climbed up the winding road and gone through the six gates is the Rana Kumbha Palace




The Kumbha Shyram Temple dedicated to Vishnu with its carved panels illustrating C15 Mewar life. This is the local dynasty that rules this area including Udaipur. They claim to be the longest continuous ruling dynasty in the world and still reign and live in Udaipur City Palace. 



 The major monument in the fort is the nine storey high Tower of Victory. Erected by Rana Kumbha in the 1440s to celebrate a victory in the local derby match against the Melwa. If you are here and fit enough you can climb to the top of it and drink in the views. That's not the only drink you will need when you get there.


The Palace of Padmini, a princess who by a typically Indian bureaucratic mistake got betrothed to two nearby princes. Both arrived with strong armies and threatened to take their prize by dint of force and retribution. I would have told them to sort it out between themselves but she was made of sterner stuff and took poison thus saving her people. Well maybe.... We heard the same story about a princess in Udaipur City Palace, maybe it was the same one.


The Temple of Samidhesh was built in the sixth century and restored in1427. Close to the temple are the cremation stones where 13000 women and children committed jauhar in 1427.



 We took this especially for Fin. Now that you can drive we thought that you might like to try this. It is in fact an automated temple drum and bell ringer. I wondered how they could keep it up all night.


After lunch we drove on to Udaipur. I chose the Rang Niwas Hotel to stay because I remember it with pleasure when my brother Jonty and I stayed there in 1997. I would have liked to have said that the owner remembered me. I can't. He didn't. It is a splendid place built in the late C19 and sort of miniplacial being just a few strides away from the City Palace and centre of town. Have a wee peek at the place. I had a swim here and the water comes directly from the glacial melt in the Himalayas. At least that's what it felt like! 


The main building which has a library cum lounge in the centre complete with stuffed tiger and the paraphernalia for the killing thereof.


 This is our outdoor area where we took breakfast and afternoon tea.

Alternatively we could relax in the garden. The cost incidentally was £20 a night total.

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