Day 21 Friday 10th October

The start of the sprint for home. I had organised return transport yesterday with Margarita, "Our woman in Yerevan". She gave me a choice of bus or taxi. 6000 Drams for the former and 8000 for the latter. In GBP that is about 8.50 or 11.50 each for the 6 hour journey. It goes without saying that I ask her to book 2 for the taxi. We also arrange a local taxi to pick us up at the flat and take us to the bus station/international taxi departure ( about £1.50). We subsequently learn that Margaria's English is not in fact that good and what she means by taxi is what we would call a slightly smarter minibus that might complete the journey with a spare part or two and a bit of luck. Guess what, we have the smallest back seats again. Most importantly it leaves on time at 10.30am.

This shows the minibus being refuelled with LPG very near the militarily closed border with Azerbaijan. Note all the passengers have to leave the vehicle and stand well back, meanwhile there's two guys immediately to the left of the blue car who are welding with no protection and sparks are flying everywhere. 

It is a more interesting run than the route in, with some great scenery and all the evidence of that unfinished war including the in situ graveyards, and a deal of military presence. 

We make Tbilisi at 4.30 and reunite with Tina and our other suitcase by 5pm. We now just have to kill some time before Mr T runs us to the airport at midnight for our 4.45 am departure for Istanbul. Time to eat, so we try Pur Pur. This is the LP top choice and features live jazz, excellent food and a very convivial ambience. It was all of these.

All you need in a great restaurant, entertainment, good food and an interesting toilet.

After another good Atlas Air flight we landed at Istanbul about 7.00am and taxi to hotel who (glory be) let us straight into our upgraded to deluxe room. Frankly anywhere to lay our heads counted as deluxe to us by this time. Of course you can't go to Istanbul without going to the Grand Bazaar and haggling for a leather jacket and when you are trying to buy two it's twice the fun. Now rather smartly dressed we go out for a distinctly Turkish dining experience where we were taught how to eat like a local. Bed again for a short sleep before the last flight to Luton. 

Mission completed in all respects, but I can't finish this without a few words. Firstly thanks, Helen especially to you for having the courage to come, the faith to trust me and the perseverance to survive. You were a great travelling companion, proofreader, technical consultant and most definitely made the whole trip for me. Thank you readers, especially those who gave us some feedback. Without you there would not be much point in this. I must acknowledge the Lonely Planet Guides for, well guidance and some textual assistance. 

By the time I publish this page our statistics read; total page views 1175, in 4 continents, 10 counties, 766 views in UK, 152 in USA (who is reading us there? CIA ??). Not exactly viral, but pleasing nonetheless. 

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