Saturday 11 October 2014

Day 20 Thursday 9th October

A whole day to devote to Yerevan. This is a treat I shall savour. The two of us haven't yet walked around the city in daylight together so turn right out of the flat and about 2 minutes walk takes us into Rebublic Square. The Post Office is here so the cards can go. There is a music festival planned for this weekend so they are busy erecting staging etc, in readiness.



The door to the main (only) Post Office. Look very closely and you will see the old hammer and sickle motif in ironic contrast to the modern ATMs.


Look at the detailed stone carving in the traditional Armenian style. 




This is Northern Avenue which is full of expensive designer labels. It is being resurfaced and pedestrianised with thousands of Laris worth of trees and shrubs going in. It looks up to the Opera House and then on to the Cascade with the monument celebrating 50 years of communist rule above it all. How this monument survives beats me but (unlike the Georgians) they like to keep on good terms with the Russians. Note how the Soviet style of imperial grandeur is being maintained to keep the city homogenuity.



This is the Cascade. The photo does it no justice, it is a staircase on a giant scale with water running down through a series of complex pipes. Construction on the project ceased in 1991 when funds dried up. In 2001 diaspora philanthropist Gerald Cafesjian took over the project. He is an art collector who not only installed the vast collection sculptures but also repaired the escalators, built the galleries and planted the flower beds. Although still unfinished at the top, the whole thing is very impressive. You really feel art matters here. Look at some sculptures. 






The bronze of the Roman soldier with the unimpressive protuberance is by the Columbian artist Fernando Botero. The balancing hares are by the North Walian "hareman" Barry Flanagan. He was born in Prestatyn in1941 and died sadly of MND in 2009. He was represented by several other works.

 We walked back down to the Opera Square for an early evening drink and to plan where we are to have our last meal in Yerevan before the long journey home. We decided on Dolmamas. This is the poshest place in town. Amongst others it's guests have been Vladimir Putin, Prince Charles, Jaques Chirac, and many other Heads of State. It was affordable with mains costing £15-20. Unfortunately it was shut or full as the door was locked. 

Instead we walked on to a little cellar place very near our flat. Serendipity or what we had an unforgettable evening. There was a live folk band playing with a singer who had a voice of operatic quality, so did one of the guests. They proceeded to have a singing competition, each trying to out sing the other. We got friendly with the big family group who were next to us. The floor singer was part of this family. They sent huge portions of birthday cake to us and by the end of the night we were all kissing each other and giving huge bear hugs. Indeed we ended up shaking hands with all the staff and the rest of the guests. 




The huge chef, one of two brothers who run the place.

What a city!





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