Day 1 Saturday 20th September.

We actually left on time, well nearly. Thanks to Mitch we got to Luton airport at 9.45. What an excellent place, as airports go. The staff were friendly, efficient and courteous. Check in was quick. We were given the two seats by the emergency exit which means there is no seating immediately  in front of you.

I include this crumbie photo just to point out the blinking obvious. Talking of crumbie photos, how about this selfie.

Ok, we cheated a little here as this was taken in our noisy little flat in the heart of Istanbul, but more of that later. We had decided to take a yellow (official) taxi into the city from the airport. This was expensive but essential given 40 kilos of luggage, the time of day and our ignorance of the geography. This white knuckle ride was amazing. Our driver could not only read our route with one eye and one hand but also engage his sat nav on his mobile therefore occupying the other eye and hand, meanwhile somehow driving the cab through the most horrendous traffic imaginable. He repeated this trick by speaking on his mobile and smoking a cigarette, describing the sites and asking about our plans "Why are you going to Kars?" he asked bemused. "Because it's an ancient deserted city" I replied.  "Are you a professor? " he said.  The traffic is like a dodgem ride with no lane discipline.  It's 360 degree ducking and weaving.

Our apartment is located in the heart of Istanbul but up several sets of stairs. So to bed perchance to dream, or more likely, listen, as we are surrounded by at least one hundred very noisy bars and nightclubs.