Tuesday, 6 February 2018

An Indulgence in India 30th Jan 2018

Like Foreign Legionnaires we return from the desert to our barracks in Jaisalmer Fort. Actually our barracks for the next two days was to be the Hotel Royal Haveli which was outside the fort.The first picture shows the view of the fort from our rooftop restaurant in the hotel.


Here is Helen enjoying the sunshine in one of our two sort of balconies in our room in the hotel. Although modern, this hotel was well appointed and built in the traditional style with the elaborately hand carved stonework everywhere.


Jaisalmer is a fort unlike any other that we have visited in India. It is an ancient fortification that contains a palace but there the comparisons end because this is also a living bustling town full of tiny lanes into which are crammed hotels, restaurants, shops and all the other paraphernalia for living. The place has the touristonom of the"Golden City". The reason for this is quite obvious as the whole place, including all the development outside the fort is constructed with the local golden yellow sandstone. For miles around the first metre of the ground is being removed for construction material. This is not obtrusive quarrying as you can't really tell the sand from the sandstone.
The result is this wonderful romantic sandcastle of a town that stands like a mirage on the horizon.

Jaisalmer was founded in 1146 by the leader of the Bhati Rajput clan called Jaisal. The Bhatis trace their lineage back to Krishna and ruled right through until independence in 1947.
In the early years they relied on looting for income but by the C16 Jaisalmer was prospering from its strategic position on the camel train route between India and Central Asia. More cordial relations with the Mughal Empire led to expansion in the mid C17. Sea trade via Mumbai and the railways under the British Raj saw a major decline and with Partition and the sealing of the trade routes with Pakistan seemed to seal the fate of Jaisalmer.
However the '65 and '71 wars with Pakistan raised its military importance once again.
Today tourism, wind power generation and the military are the economic mainstays. The Indria Gandhi canal to the north has also brought water to the desert. The picture shows the old palace.




We went round this Haveli museum. It was on about five floors and the building was of the most interest. The contents seemed to be an eclectic collection of anything dated between 1910 and 1960. There was no attempt at any sort of theme or interpretation. Good view from the top though.


Typical of the narrow lanes within the fort. Walking down these involved running the gauntlet of a trader at every entrance.


We paused for ice cream and coffee at this aptly named Panorama Café. The owner was keen that I would give him a mench.


This town also is the only place in the world that I have come across that contains an official Government Bangh shop, though come to think of it Christiana in Copenhagen must have one. I can't help thinking that the surreal decoration here is inspired by the bangh.


Looking back up to the aforementioned Panorama Café.


Part of the downside of India in a nutshell. A "couldn't care less attitude" to rubbish and litter. Cows may safely graze....... everywhere. Dogs sleep all day and bark all night.



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