A Short Norweign Saga day two 31st January

I really must try to make this text a bit more informative than "here comes the train". A few facts about Norway to give some context.

Norway was one of Europe's more disadvantaged countries until the discovery of offshore oil in 1969. Now the UN repeatedly ranks it the best country in the world to live in. The UN Development Programme bases its annual ranking on an index that measures wealth, education levels and life expectancy. Norway once again ranked first in 2013. It is expensive, but Norway has more per capita $ millionaires (one in every 85) than any other country in the world. They paid off their national debt in 1995 and now have a Government Pension Fund of $750 billion ethically invested overseas.

Feel better for that?  Probably not if you live in the UK.

We had dinner last night at a Vietnamese Restaurant which was great value at 330 NK including drinks (11.68NOK = £1). Excellent chop sticky food.

Up and walking down to Karl Johans Gate, the Champs Ellyse of Oslo.  Couldn't resist a look in the Michael Kors handbag shop a snip at £350.  Further on we passed

Stortorvet the house of parliament. 

The Grand Hotel, where Ibsen had his lunch every day. 

The ice rink which becomes a fountain in the summer. 

The National Theatre with Ibsen before his lunch. 

The Princess outside the Royal Palace. 

This is the Nobel Peace Centre, a great interactive museum celebrating all the Peace Prize winners since 1901 when it was first awarded. It was a really inspiring visit.  It was also here where we bought our Oslo passes.  Although 67 is the pensioners age here the man said that if you are a pensioner in your country then you are a pensioner in ours.  The card covers all city transport, museums and discount in some restaurants.  Very welcome here as you can imagine. Next on the bus to the Viking ship museum. 

 

The 3 ships in this museum are burial ships for Viking kings who died around AD 890. They were excavated in the 19th century but probably plundered for precious metals within 100 years of burial. The Viking Empire's influence which lasted from about AD 800 until 1100 is easy to under estimate. In this time they explored, traded with and to an extent conquered from North America to the Black Sea. The purpose built museum is in itself a star. Next it's the bus back to the city centre and the National Gallery. This should be a real scream.

And some more of Munch's famous and in two cases, stolen images.

Apart from the first which we all know, they are entitled Madonna, the Dance of Life and the Day After. Next is a painting we both thought depicted Norway well. It is called Summer Night.

After coffee and cake we took a tram back to the hotel for a freshen up before dinner at the Scotsman. Tasty lamb shank. 

Finally two more images from the Peace Centre. The first was designed by Gerald Holtom in 1958 basing it on the letters N and D from the flag semaphore alphabet to make the CND symbol we all know and love. The second speaks for itself. 

  

A Short Norweign Saga day one Friday 30th January

It all started with and without a hangover. New Year's Day and Helen is enjoying a quiet day on the sofa with the TV. I was a bit bored, so went looking on the Ryanair website, as you do. Return flights to Oslo for £30 a head!
I've never been to Norway nor Helen to Scandinavia, so though it's the worst time to visit ( short dark days and very cold),it's not to miss.
Booking.com comes up with a hotel, right in the centre, rooms at £50 per night, customer approval 8.5. That's it, we're off.

Thursday pm we set off for the Holiday Inn Express, Stansted in flurries of snow and an ominous weather forecast.

Next morning at 6-45, this is what we encountered.

Now then, we've seen this before. Whereas a metre more of this in Oslo causes no problems, here it could spell big trouble. 

We had timed it generously for our 8.45 take off..... but for one delayed until 11.20 we had plenty of time to unplan the things that we were going to do today. As you can see the weather was so bad outside nobody could possibly cope!

Queues the downside of Ryanair. The couple in blue in front of us shared the same plane, then bus, then train, then hotel with us. We had a good look round the bedroom when we got there!

Next a bit of Norweign transport infrastructure. 

A folksy wood carver's shop

Here comes the train

 We stopped at Ski station. This is where skiing was first invented, of course.

Norweign wood and sort of fiord.

Our bedroom and facilities. Best described as small but perfectly formed. Note some examples of the more than usually helpful advisitory signage. 

Day 21 Friday 10th October

The start of the sprint for home. I had organised return transport yesterday with Margarita, "Our woman in Yerevan". She gave me a choice of bus or taxi. 6000 Drams for the former and 8000 for the latter. In GBP that is about 8.50 or 11.50 each for the 6 hour journey. It goes without saying that I ask her to book 2 for the taxi. We also arrange a local taxi to pick us up at the flat and take us to the bus station/international taxi departure ( about £1.50). We subsequently learn that Margaria's English is not in fact that good and what she means by taxi is what we would call a slightly smarter minibus that might complete the journey with a spare part or two and a bit of luck. Guess what, we have the smallest back seats again. Most importantly it leaves on time at 10.30am.

This shows the minibus being refuelled with LPG very near the militarily closed border with Azerbaijan. Note all the passengers have to leave the vehicle and stand well back, meanwhile there's two guys immediately to the left of the blue car who are welding with no protection and sparks are flying everywhere. 

It is a more interesting run than the route in, with some great scenery and all the evidence of that unfinished war including the in situ graveyards, and a deal of military presence. 

We make Tbilisi at 4.30 and reunite with Tina and our other suitcase by 5pm. We now just have to kill some time before Mr T runs us to the airport at midnight for our 4.45 am departure for Istanbul. Time to eat, so we try Pur Pur. This is the LP top choice and features live jazz, excellent food and a very convivial ambience. It was all of these.

All you need in a great restaurant, entertainment, good food and an interesting toilet.

After another good Atlas Air flight we landed at Istanbul about 7.00am and taxi to hotel who (glory be) let us straight into our upgraded to deluxe room. Frankly anywhere to lay our heads counted as deluxe to us by this time. Of course you can't go to Istanbul without going to the Grand Bazaar and haggling for a leather jacket and when you are trying to buy two it's twice the fun. Now rather smartly dressed we go out for a distinctly Turkish dining experience where we were taught how to eat like a local. Bed again for a short sleep before the last flight to Luton. 

Mission completed in all respects, but I can't finish this without a few words. Firstly thanks, Helen especially to you for having the courage to come, the faith to trust me and the perseverance to survive. You were a great travelling companion, proofreader, technical consultant and most definitely made the whole trip for me. Thank you readers, especially those who gave us some feedback. Without you there would not be much point in this. I must acknowledge the Lonely Planet Guides for, well guidance and some textual assistance. 

By the time I publish this page our statistics read; total page views 1175, in 4 continents, 10 counties, 766 views in UK, 152 in USA (who is reading us there? CIA ??). Not exactly viral, but pleasing nonetheless. 

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Day 20 Thursday 9th October

A whole day to devote to Yerevan. This is a treat I shall savour. The two of us haven't yet walked around the city in daylight together so turn right out of the flat and about 2 minutes walk takes us into Rebublic Square. The Post Office is here so the cards can go. There is a music festival planned for this weekend so they are busy erecting staging etc, in readiness.

The door to the main (only) Post Office. Look very closely and you will see the old hammer and sickle motif in ironic contrast to the modern ATMs.

Look at the detailed stone carving in the traditional Armenian style. 

This is Northern Avenue which is full of expensive designer labels. It is being resurfaced and pedestrianised with thousands of Laris worth of trees and shrubs going in. It looks up to the Opera House and then on to the Cascade with the monument celebrating 50 years of communist rule above it all. How this monument survives beats me but (unlike the Georgians) they like to keep on good terms with the Russians. Note how the Soviet style of imperial grandeur is being maintained to keep the city homogenuity.

This is the Cascade. The photo does it no justice, it is a staircase on a giant scale with water running down through a series of complex pipes. Construction on the project ceased in 1991 when funds dried up. In 2001 diaspora philanthropist Gerald Cafesjian took over the project. He is an art collector who not only installed the vast collection sculptures but also repaired the escalators, built the galleries and planted the flower beds. Although still unfinished at the top, the whole thing is very impressive. You really feel art matters here. Look at some sculptures. 

The bronze of the Roman soldier with the unimpressive protuberance is by the Columbian artist Fernando Botero. The balancing hares are by the North Walian "hareman" Barry Flanagan. He was born in Prestatyn in1941 and died sadly of MND in 2009. He was represented by several other works.

 We walked back down to the Opera Square for an early evening drink and to plan where we are to have our last meal in Yerevan before the long journey home. We decided on Dolmamas. This is the poshest place in town. Amongst others it's guests have been Vladimir Putin, Prince Charles, Jaques Chirac, and many other Heads of State. It was affordable with mains costing £15-20. Unfortunately it was shut or full as the door was locked. 

Instead we walked on to a little cellar place very near our flat. Serendipity or what we had an unforgettable evening. There was a live folk band playing with a singer who had a voice of operatic quality, so did one of the guests. They proceeded to have a singing competition, each trying to out sing the other. We got friendly with the big family group who were next to us. The floor singer was part of this family. They sent huge portions of birthday cake to us and by the end of the night we were all kissing each other and giving huge bear hugs. Indeed we ended up shaking hands with all the staff and the rest of the guests. 

The huge chef, one of two brothers who run the place.

What a city!

Day 19 Wednesday 8th October

Our second organised trip today. This time it's a temple and the WHS listed Geghard monastery. This won't be such a long trip and we expect to be back by 3-00 pm.

Both of these sites are in the Geghama mountain range which gets up to 3600m. For the geographers, we have Mt. Ararat at 5165m and Mt. Aragats 4090m.  Ararat is a sacred mountain for the locals who were, and are still very unhappy that it was placed in Turkey when the boundaries were redrawn after the First World War. Mind you that's just a small part of the problems they have with Turkey.

The Garni Temple built to the Hellenic god Mitra (sun) in the 1st century by local King Trdat 1.  It became a summer house for Armenian royalty after the Christian conversion. The setting is really quite dramatic. 

As the local guide pointed out to us. The temple was destroyed by an earthquake in 14th century. The restoration is a little heavy handed, rebuild might be nearer the mark. There is also a Roman style bathhouse complete with hypocaust and mosaic. 

After this we moved on to Geghard monastery. The Lonely Planet Guide for Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan highlights 8 top experiences for the region. This is one of them. It is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Described as half cathedral half cave. Geghard means lance and refers to the fact that the spear that pierced Jesus when he was crucified was brought here at a later date and certainly helped in all sorts of ways both practically and spiritually. It's sort of God meets Indiana Jones. It is a spooky, dimly lit sanctuary, where voices bounce off walls, sunbeams stream through the narrow windows and droplets of water ooze through the walls. Pictures can't really do it justice, but I'll have a try.

I was keen to join the order but they said I was temperamentaly unsuitable. What does that mean? Remember the couple who nearly caused us to be late yesterday? They were on this trip again today. We had quite a chat. She was local and he from the Armenian diaspora living in Canada. They recommended a jazz club cum restaurant in town called Poplavok Jazz Café. Since the LP guide also recommended it and the ex President is a frequent customer we thought we would give it a go.

We took a taxi (no, the taxi didn't take us) the driver hadn't a clue so I took him with the aid of a street plan and hand directions. He seemed very grateful and charged me 80p so I tipped him 20p, honours even.

Still remember that couple? Well they were in there and by now we greeted each other like long lost friends, and had a parting full of kisses and handshakes when they left. The ex President? Well I'm pretty sure he was in there, this distinguished looking old guy on his own.....

Unfortunately the ex President is just out of camera shot to the left. Honest.