A Costa Rican Recce Thurs 31st Jan

Montezuma is a hard place to leave, but more especially so when you are doing a beach launch with luggage. Have a look at the Costa Rican west coast. You will see the Nicoya Peninsula. If  you look at the southern tip facing across the Gulf you will find Montezuma. We are travelling in an open speedboat directly east for another beach landing on Playa del Jaco. The distance is almost exactly 50 km. It usually takes about an hour but it was so rough today it took an hour and a half. A regular traveller on this route has never known it as rough before. There were six paying customers ($35 a head) and two crew,  William and David. You can meet them in the picture below.

Firstly the luggage had to be stowed after being wrapped in strong polythene bags.

The sea does not look particularly rough in this picture but the waves were still high enough to toss the boat backwards as Helen tried to board resulting in her total immersion. Unfortunately I missed the photo opportunity. The girl in the picture is Ellen from London. She was on a sabbatical few months from her work and shared the journey with us as far as Quepos.
Here is a view back towards the accommodation we have just left behind. We were in the bottom floor of the building on the shore, centre left. You can make out the parasol over the barbecue if you expand the picture.

I did say that the journey was rough, but it wasn't seasick rough it was more up in the air and smack back on the water rough. Each time the boat went aerial off a wave we landed with a bone crunching crash and a cacophonic thudding of fragile fibreglass on granite water. This take off and landing was occurring every 3-5 seconds. To be fair the waves did ease up a bit after we got about three quarters of the way across allowing us to have a gentle discussion about Brexit and Donald Trump. There was however to be no bridge over troubled waters. We did also see large fish leaping clear of the water which we immediately assumed were dolphins but turned out to be sting rays. 

Included  in our $35 was a minibus ride from the beach to a bus stop on the main road to Quepos. Here we were able to get a coffee, use an ATM and nearly miss the bus. We managed to chase the bus and it stops for us thanks to Ellen's sprint. The bus takes us along the coast through a few small villages and after an hour and a half we pull into Quepos bus station. It's a bit of a walk to the apartment but very nice when we get there. The apartment is very well kitted out and even included a slowcooker. The outside with our balcony. 

The inside showing our breakfast bar and cooking facilities. These bars with their high stools are copying a what you have in the typical "soda" or breakfast/lunch cafe.

Of course the essential ablutions. This nicely illustrates the procedure with toilet paper. As is common in many other countries or areas with less well developed sewerage systems the paper goes in the bin and only the direct human offerings go down the toilet. This arrangement also allows for easier natural recycling. 

Quepos main raison d'etre now is servicing the National Park or more precisely the tourists who visit. It is also a thriving seaside resort. The beaches are down by the park so need transport to get there. Fortunately there's a public bus service which runs every ten minutes through the day. The old banana port of Quepos now serves the sport fishing industry. If you want to bag yourself a marlin or a sail fish then Quepos is one of the best places in the world to set out from. We decided on another day on the beach, with sunloungers, the first we encountered in Costa Rica. 

The tent and zipwire arrangement behind us was Kolbi, a local mobile phone company who were also responsible for the very loud music that played all day. The older Beethoven wouldn't have minded but Mozart would have left. 

Between my knees you can see the twice blessed coconut. They can be bought from vendors with little carts carrying cold boxes. When you buy one the seller cuts the top off very skillfully so a hole remains just big enough for a straw to be inserted. Lie back and enjoy the first blessing, the cold water. When this is finished you need the man again who this time chops a wedge off the bottom to give you your spoon, then cuts the nut in half without chopping his hand off. Second blessing, the flesh. The flesh of these immature nuts is thinner and more moist than that of the mature coconut we are used to. 

There was lots to do on the beach. First and foremost the surf which was great and knocked me over. Others could manage somewhat better. 

This next picture which includes one of power boats that tow the paragliders also reminds me of the painting by Hokusai only without Mt Fuji for contrast. 

As the sun began to set we were in for a fabulous and ever-changing light show. I offer you a small selection for you to pick your favourite. I couldn't. 

JMBT would have loved it.