Chilling out in the Canaries 8/3/2022

 Our location in Playa del Hombre means we really have to have a car in order to get the best out of this holiday. In Gran Canaria there is really only two choices. You head to the hills or you head to the beaches. Today it's the former, indeed you can't get higher than the highest peak on the island Pico de las Nieves which stands at 1,949 metres. By coincidence this happens to be the same numbers as my birth year. 

Although relatively small (the circumference is 235 kms) the island displays a remarkable variety of landscapes. Ar  id larval desert that only supports stubborn socially isolated cacti and the odd lizard if your eyesight is quick enough to spot that tail-flicking movement, is juxtaposed with lush verdant slopes supporting a cornucopia of agriculture. Clearly the answer lies in the microclimate. Ironically the bananas seem to be grown in those really dry areas. Presumably these are the sunniest ie cloud free districts,but more of bananas later. Let's look at some hillside farming. Terracing is of course essential with slopes like these and many are decades if not centuries old,

Some handy clouds here to support my theory. Talking of cloud, we encountered these in abundance at the top of Pico de las Nieves. Unusually we could drive right to the top and the reason why is that the summit is shared with a military base hence the road was constructed. If you have ever wondered who is watching you, well it's everyone, but also someone on the top of this mountain. 

Seconds later the view becomes this. 

And in a few more seconds..........

And if you are interested in seeing the military base, look quickly as it's a restricted area. 

The next view point was also affected by cloud cover. This is the Caldera (crater) de los Marteles. It is 80 metres down to the bottom and 550 metres across. The landscape was created by an explosive phreatomagmatic eruption or for the layman when larva comes into contact with underground water. It occurred about a million years ago. The crater has a flat bottom and weather permitting you can see the geometric lines of ploughing showing that agriculture has been a traditional activity on this relatively flat land. In Wales it would have been a rugby stadium. 

We continued downwards heading for a ravine type valley which has been inhabited constantly since the first indigenous peoples arrived on the island. The location represents the greatest density of archaeological sites spread along both slopes of the ravine among which troglodyte habitats abound, under escarpment ledges and on hillsides. It is considered to be one of the most stunning cultural landscapes in Gran Canaria. This troglodytic lifestyle has persisted even up to the present day. 

The caves are clearly visible in the rock cliffs. As well as habitations the caves were used for storage and burial purposes. Access to many of the caves is very difficult and the remains of ancestors still remain undisturbed where they were first laid to rest many hundreds of years ago. 

This historic landscape has not however remained static. It has evolved and adapted to present day living. 

Meet our friend, the present day troglodyte and his humble abode. This is his washing up area which has running water..

The cave is also supplied with mains electricity for lighting and the television (He was watching Death in Paradise when we called.) Some of the homes ran on portable generators. He earned a few Euros each day showing people round his home. Below you can see his hallway, the green door leads through to the bedroom/living room. 

He had a few "museumy bits" to illustrate his story. 

Above is his double bed that he shared with his senhora until sadly she died of a brain haemorrhage. Now he shares a single bed,  cut from the rock face, with his little dog, if you see what I mean. We moved on to another place where life has stood still. 

Aguimes has become the best example of a Canarian hill town. The streets of the old town exude a gentle,  relaxed, timeless atmosphere and carefully positioned street statues and sculptures add a series of surprises to a visit to the old town. 

There had been a festival of sorts taking place earlier today. We encountered a group of women in the square who were still determined to enjoy themselves singing and dancing. 

Some of the surprises are bigger than others. Why the nude cellist? It brought to mind that famous quote by Sir Thomas Beecham "Madam you have between your legs an instrument that can give pleasure to thousands but all you can do is scratch it. "

Who can resist a camel ride when it's on offer for free? Certainly this beast was much easier to mount than Helen's last one in the Thar Desert in India. 

Chilling out in the Canaries 6/3/2022

 It must be five and a half years since we have seen my niece, Sarah and her now husband, Adrian. I know this because on last meeting we had discussed the outcome of that fateful day 23rd June 2016. Last week, as a matter of courtesy I phoned my brother to let him know that we would be out of the country for a couple of weeks in Gran Canaria. It was only then we learnt that Sarah and Adrian would be there at the same time. A get together in Las Palmas was called for and duly arranged. They were staying in Maspalomas whilst enjoying the rugged terrain by bike, so travelled up to Las Palmas on the bus. We, meanwhile had hired a car for the middle part of our holiday. 

Actually meeting up in the city could have been quite a problem but serendipitously their bus terminal and the car park we chose were almost adjacent. Here we are with the famous Las Canteras beach behind us. This beach has over 1000 metres of fine white sand and is protected by La Barra a rock and coral barrier that not only provides excellent scuba and snorkel diving but also keeps the sea pleasantly calm. 

We walked the length of the promenade taking in the sights. Wherever you go in Gran Canaria you encounter works of art,  many of them bronze sculptures and each with its own story to tell. This figure (not Sarah) is dedicated to shoe cleaners the world over.

Helen arm in arm with a famous dancing teacher but I'm not sure how much she learnt.

If you look carefully you will see three posts with wooden constructions on the top of them.  They look very primitive but I couldn't find any explanation of their meaning. Perhaps they represented some of the art of indigenous people. If anybody reading this knows, please use the comment facility to let me know. 

Another expansive view of the beach. 

Adrian tells me they add cement to the mix, it saves a lot of work the next day.  What an old cynic he is (but probably right). On first sight this appears to be a representation of a North American "Indian Chief". I'm rather hoping it is in fact a representation of the Canarii, those first inhabitants of the Canary Islands and the designs on each side are references to their troglodyte lifestyle. 

The city is built on a narrow peninsula with higher land at each end of it and sea at either side, a bit like Llandudno if you know it. The natural harbour at Las Palmas is defended by the Castillo de la Luz, built in 1494 on existing Castillian foundations, it had gun platforms for eleven canons. Today it is home to a permanent art exhibition devoted to the work of Martin Chirino. You may have encountered the excellent worldwide organisation called Strawberry Tours. They run free informative tours conducted by local people for the benefit of local charities. We are very grateful to Adrian, who for one day only set up his own "Raspberry Tour" for us. Not perhaps quite as informative as the originals but definitely more amusing. 

We can't leave without reference to the importance of Las Palmas as a port. Historically Spain valued the islands as a jumping off point to the New World. Christopher Columbus discovered the advantage of the trade winds that blow east to west, north of the equator. This was why they were so keen to possess them in the late C15. Today it is still busy importing and exporting goods, as a military base and as a port of call for cruise liners. Modern day windjammers do exist and here's the living proof. A special kind of cruise can be had on the Sea Cloud Spirit. Google it up if you want more information or fancy a cruise. There were two more of a similar size nearby. 

Chilling out in The Canaries 4/03/22

 I like the fact that the street we are staying on is named after Goya, that great Spanish artist. The community where we are living is called Playa del Hombre. It is quite a recent development that takes its name from the adjacent beach. Although there is plenty of residential building there is not as yet much commercial infrastructure by way of shops, bars and restaurants. Both to the north and south of us are the more mature developments of Melanara and La Grita. 

We walked over the headland south to Melenara. Being somewhat out of season we found most of the shops and bars shut. The views were however open, so I can share some of those with you. 

An inviting looking beach even at this early evening time. There is a wonderful coastal path, part of which you can see in the foreground of this picture. The path is a recent construction which is well but subtley lit and has frequent exercise points as well as artistic installations. The district comes under the authority of Telde, as can be seen in red. The whole path however is thanks to money from the EU. A benefit the citizens of the UK decided that they didn't want. The next shot shows our old friend Neptune arising from the waves. 

There is a well protected small port at Melenara which appears to be thriving commercially. Also, if you look carefully, you see that fatalistic connection between religion and dangerous occupations.

There is a shrine on the pavement below the mural and next to it a frame containing portraits of those unfortunate souls who lost their lives at sea. Lighthouses are of course designed to reduce that risk and here is the one marking the Melenara headland. Helen is also demonstrating her ability to feel braille, but not I think to read it. Around the corner you can see why the lighthouse is there. 

Around the corner you can see why the lighthouse is there. The Atlantic v granite match has been going on around here for millenia but as far as I can see it's still a score draw.

Let's see a bit more of this contest. 

Another half mile along the path we drop down into Playa del Hombre bay. This garden rather struck me. It's amazing what you can achieve with an old spare tin of terracotta paint especially when your garden consists of brown larva rock. 

As darkness drops it is time to walk the 200 metres up the hill to our apartment. I finish with two views of the beach. The first looking north to La Grita where the footpath is heading and the second looking back south from whence we came. 

If the sand looks somewhat dark, it's because it is. This is the brown larva variety as opposed to the classic seashell white stuff. 

Chilling out in the Canaries 28/2/2022

 With a little help from my friends, or more specifically my daughter in law Cat we completed the elecropaperwork needed by Ryanair and the Spanish health authorities. We arrived in surprisingly good time to a nearly empty East Midlands Airport. The flight was perhaps 20% full which resulted in every couple having an empty seat between and the flight leaving half an hour ahead of time, 

I don't surpose that Sunday evening is ever Gran Canaria's airport's busiest time, but it was positively grave-like when we arrived. Let me share with you our first view of Gran Canaria's coastline as we came through the low cloud. Sorry about the poor quality image with Ryanair's dirty, glary windows but at least you can see that they do bolt the engines on well enough to last the journey. 

You might wonder what the large pale shape is in the centre of the picture. The next image will reveal their horticultural significance as they are a sort of cross between a polytunnel and fruit netting and are used to shade from the sun and wind. 

All the large pale white shapes are for growing purposes, the main crops being bananas and tomatoes. You can also see plenty of turbines for wind generated power and the motorway which runs parallel to the airport's main runway. We landed (on the runway) half an hour ahead of schedule. As the documentation was all in order, we had no problem getting into the country.  After a taxi ride to our address we encountered our first problem. Lightbooking, the Spanish company that we booked through are very hi-tec. Everything that we have done so far has been through a computer interface. We received two ekeys by email.  One to the premises and one to our apartment. What the hell is an ekey? I hear you ask. You simply press a button on screen and the door opens like sesame! Only it doesn't. Helpfully they have provided a WhatsApp helpline which we resort to. Someone a thousand kilometers away in Cadiz hits a button on their mobile and three goes later the door opens. Like magic, only it's a shame the trick doesn't work every time. 

Have a look at the place. There are only 4 apartments and the pool and outside area is shared. Our place is through the last two double patio doors on the left.  

Now let's step inside. It's all one big room really but rather cleverly divided into usage areas, for example you are looking from the lounge into the bedroom. The decoration is minimalistic with a touch of natural fibres. The wall hanging which is made from hemp was originally a carpet from the time when Canarians lived in either windmills or lighthouses. 

The picture shows the ablutions area (toilet, huge shower, his and her sinks and, of course, the central, freestanding bath) from the dining area. 

Next is the food prep, kitchen and bar as seen from ablutions. 

Finally the sea, well ocean view actually as we are 100 kilometres into the Atlantic. The beach is described as being 200 metres from the accommodation and indeed it probably is if you can fly. To walk down the hill to it takes a good five minutes. 

Up until Monday evening we were the only residents. Then we were joined by a lovely young couple, he German via Spain and she Guatemalan via Germany. Their fluent Spanish is going to be an asset. I always like to finish with an evening picture to close a blog so this is Playa del Hombre at dusk. 

Chilling out in The Canaries 2/2/22

 The last time we went beyond the shores of the UK was in 2019 when we enjoyed the Rugby World Cup in Japan and our brief few days in Beijing. Little did we know that the dreaded Covid 19 was to follow us back to Europe, or maybe it proceeded us, on it's way to virtually close the world down as we knew it. 2020 and 2021 have been and gone in a glaze of confusion surrounding lockdowns, shortages, kindnesses and generosity, a house move and refurbishment, tragedies and sadness. The time proved equally divisive and bonding. All the while our Government demonstrated incompetence, nepotism, hypocrisy, arrogance and pants ablaze dishonesty, the results of which have still not yet come home to roost. 

At least we have all been made more fully aware of the Greek alphabet and we understand that the Omicron variant is much less life threatening, especially to the wisely vaccinated, than was previously predicted. So Helen and I feel it is time to spread our Ryanair wings and head out to the Canary Islands for the first time. More specifically we are heading for Gran Canaria, whose flag you can see below. 

There are elements of the historic Spanish flag present in this local version. Each of the seven islands of the Canary archipelago have their own flag. Tenerife for example have a diagonal white cross on a dark blue background. There is no truth in the rumour that this is to make Scottish visitors feel at home!

The islands have a deserved reputation for hibernating a number of Northern European pensioners, so appropriately we shall be joining them but only for two weeks in our case. Let's have a look at a map of our destination. 

As you can see the island is a classic semi-submerged cone shaped volcano. Our accommodation is on the east side of the island, on the coast close to Telde the one-time capital of the island. Expand the map and look for Playa del Hombre. This is the beach very close to our villa. We are one of four units on our development which surround a heated swimming pool and sun terrace, but you can see more after we arrive if you read the successive blogs. A bit of historical and geographical context for you next. 

The islands exist because of volcanic activity over many millenia. Laying only 100 kms off the coast of North Africa, but over 1000 kms away from Spain, they were thought to be a continuation of the Atlas chain. However they are now considered to be the product of their own volcanic hot-spot. They age from west to east with Lanzaroti being the oldest where the activity started about 70 million years ago. The volcano on the  island of La Palma was, of course active only last year. 

Let's get the name business over right away. They are not called after the birds. The birds are named after them. Pliny the Elder, writing in the first century CE, claimed that the islands were home to large numbers of big dogs. This evidence is possibly based on the erroneous observations of large Monk Seals. Certainly the earliest settlers who became the indigenous people were called "Canarii". They arrived as early as 1000 BCE. Take your pick. 

Politically the islands are now a Spanish autonomous region. Spain along with Portugal and France contested ownership. Spain was given the territory by treaty  in the C15 about the time Columbus was going west. I understand that, as usual, the Canarii were not consulted. The population numbers just over 2 million with about 80% split equally between Gran Canaria and Tenerife. The islands welcome more than 12 million visitors per year. A stellar attraction on Tenerife is Mt. Teide, World Heritage site, Spain's highest peak and the world's third highest volcano (when measured from its base on the seabed).

Not my pictures, as we haven't yet visited and we are going to Gran Canaria, which is apparently best for outstanding scenery and breathtaking beaches. So looks like all we'll need are hiking boots and swimmers. 

The Power of Nine Ashbury Manor Monday 21st September 2020

 Today dawned sunny and bright,  perfect weather for a Texas Scramble on the Beeches course. Teams were to be, first off Mick, John, and Andy; second on the tee, Nigel R, Keith and Bill; finally Chris, Graham and myself. As there was to be no restrictions on the driving and we had a big hitter in Chris, I quite fancied our chances. Fate was to intervene to shake things up a little. 

The power of Nine. Ashbury Manor Golf and Activity Centre. Sunday 20th to Thursday 24th September 2020

 Regular readers of this blog will recall that this time last year eight of us golfers from Kirton Holme booked an autumnal break at Ashbury Manor. Some of our activities were recorded on these pages under the title Eight men in a Boat. This year we are the Power of nine, a power I intend to exploit to the full.

Firstly,  I  invite you to meet the nine participants. We are arranged in groups representing the square root of nine and within each group our total is, of course also the square root of nine.

Group one;

Meet Nigel Rouse, Andy Bakewell and John Davey. We tried, without success to persuade Andy to hit the ball with the fat end the club.

Group 2;

Here we have Bill Exton, Chris Pickett and Keith Sheppard. Keith, you can see is dressed up to the nines.

Group 3;

Finally Graham Morris, Mike Pickett and Nigel Duce. Although not visible in this photo, Mick is wearing a number 9 on the back of his sweater as he is our best striker of a  ball. 

We travelled down in three cars. One with 4 passengers, one with 3 and one with 2. This somewhat mathematically clumsy arrangement at least meant that the sum of the digits came to nine. Any whole number multiplied by 9 results in another number whoes digits will eventually total the number 9. Let me show you; 2x9=18 (1+8=9), 50×9=450(4+5+0=9), 578329×9=5204961(5+2+0+4+9+6+1=27 and 2+7=9). This applies to any number no matter how big, if you go on long enough. I think I've gone on long enough. 

The journey down as far as the Gloucester Services was excellent. Despite different starting places and times we all met, one behind the other in the breakfast queue. Almost as baffling as the qualities of the number nine. Thereon in however we hit traffic on the bridge over the Avon and lost over an hour to the disruption caused by roadworks or more precisely the road narrowing for the absent roadworkers.

Reception at Ashbury was well organised. All the covid regulations were explained efficiently and without fuss moreover everybody had their temperature taken. Lunch next followed by a round of the Oakwood course. This was a Stapleford competition appropriately won by Chris Pickett with 36 points (3+6=9 therefore must be a multiple of 9). I was on cloud nine to gain second place equal with Graham. After golf we had to find our rooms, incidently Nigel and I were in room 18 1+8=.....), unpack,  shower and get down to the dining room in time for our 8 o'clock dinner. All in all a pretty tiring day. Just time to listen to a little music before going to bed. Did you know that Beethoven, Schubert, Dvorak, Mahler, Vaughan Williams and Arnold all died during or after writing their ninth symphonies. Me, I'm stopping after three and stopping now for bed.